Wednesday, June 03, 2009

A Desperate Housewife in Gua Musang

Written by Linda Trivino

“BORN TO BE WILD” by Steppenwolf Get your motor runnin’
Head out on the highway
Lookin’ for adventure
And whatever comes our way
Yeah darlin’ go make it happen
Take the world in a love embrace
Fire all your guns at once
And explode into space

I like smoke and lightning
Heavy metal thunder
Racin’ with the wind
And the feelin’ that I’m under
Yeah darlin’ go make it happen
Take the world in a love embrace
Fire all of your guns at once
And explode into space

Like a true nature’s child
We were born, born to be wild
We can climb so high
I never wanna die

Born to be wild
Born to be wild


4 x 4 parade

Like the nostalgic 1968 Steppenwolf’s hit “Born To Be Wild” this was how I picture myself each time I dream of an adventure trip. As I sail into my swinging 50s, friends are shockingly amused that I’m a “wannabe adventurer.” So when Chan Wing Kai extended an invitation to Tammy Lim, Lim Yuk Horng and I to go and hang out with a group of 4x4 guys to Gua Musang, I was ecstatic and thrilled to bits. Chan has been our behind the scenes “party buddy” for quite some time now and this is also the first time we are going for a long trip with him. But we were not disappointed as Chan turned out to be a fun guy after all.

Being typically female (and also a first timer in 4x4) I needed to know what I had to pack. What kind of attire should I be using? A Lafuma’s jacket, Kathmandu’s quick dry shirts and perhaps Columbia’s Titanium pants, complete with Timberland’s hiking boots and Vorde bag pack? I sounded like a branded person but the pockets in my pants aren’t that deep unfortunately. Sadly my only source of joy nearest to brands is only a fake Kipling duffel bag. Nevertheless, my spirits are high because I felt like a “cool cat” already. The mere mention of being linked to a 4x4 adventure group is exciting enough.

This recent trip to Gua Musang was organised by William Teng, a PACM member. We are not well acquainted with William and his entourage of 29 (4x4) buddies until recently. One thing is for sure, if it had not been for them, we wouldn’t even have the chance to breathe in the exhaust fumes that spewed out from their 4x4.

The adventurous Tammy

Tammy,Yuk Horng and I started the trip from Chan’s house on his Toyota Land Cruiser. Our first stop, at Bentong town market place was already bustling with activity when we arrived. The streets are clogged with pedestrians, young and old, walking leisurely without a care in the world peering through the various baskets of fresh produce. After a light breakfast of beef noodles Chan insisted that we try the popular “tau foo fah” before we leave. This popular sweet stuff is of course lovely and absolutely divine. Why is it that food always taste better in small towns?

Chan’s Land Cruiser roared back to life again and soon we were tearing down the road to Gua Musang. It was a long and monotonous drive under the hot scorching sun and after nearly 4 hours we arrived at the main town of Gua Musang and also for gas refill. Then we were off again this time to cruise deeper into the wilds as I noticed that our hand phones were getting into the “out of coverage” signals. Just as we were about to catch a short nap, we had a pleasant surprise when Chan stopped at a rest area, surrounded by lots of shady trees, luscious ferns and healthy jungle foliage to join the group for lunch. The dense foliage overhead almost completely blocked out the sun thus for a change we could feel the coolness around us. It was here that we finally met our gracious host & hostess, Mr & Mrs William Teng. Mrs Teng or Soo as she is fondly known is a warm and lovely person, she is forever smiling and even at this first meeting, she made sure we are well fed. During the entire trip, she prepared some wonderful dishes for everyone and we named her the “food fairy.”

ChanWK with an angel

After that delicious lunch of cholesterol-packed nasi lemak complete with rendang chicken and squids, we were off again into the wilderness. Chan informed that the “off road” drive would take about 3 hours. He is a cautious driver but still, we ended up doing “rock and roll,” reluctantly in his 4x4 as he expertly drove through road gaps and gullies, swerving through twisting roads and ditches. Finally after hours of vigorous rocking and rolling, we arrived at the first Orang Asli settlement feeling dazed and bruised from our once firmed but now rather flabby bottoms. Tammy was rather disappointed as she was expecting a wilder and more dangerous ride. She has this wicked, adventurous streak of wanting to be part of a 4WD that goes down the river. Unknown to the group, she was hoping for Chan’s tyres to go down in deep mud and ditches, then imagine herself to be part of a team to hoist the vehicle out. Knowing Tammy and how free spirited she is, she probably preferred the vehicle to flip over!

The happy children

We were greeted by many beaming faces of the Orang Asli children. Though they were half clad in old and tattered clothes, they looked radiantly happy and the smiles on their dirt smudged faces indicated only pure joys at seeing visitors. How could we not be drawn to their warm hospitality? Unlike City kids dressed to the nines in Baby Gap and Oshkosh B’gosh these children clung on to each other in rags on that hot afternoon under our scrutinising eyes. Every now and then, they would get so bewildered and flustered when we wanted to take pictures with them. Did we City folks think we would look glamorous standing next to them? Perhaps like Angelina Jolie holding daughter Zahara in her arms?

The leader of the pack taking a snooze

After 10 minutes of mingling, we headed deeper into the jungle, this time to see a real Penghulu (Chief) of the Orang Asli tribe (every tribe has a Penghulu). His place would be our “hang out” over the next 2 days. Upon arrival, William and his buddies (David, Yuen, Kelvin, Barry, Yap and Vincent) immediately got down to business by unloading lots of boxes filled with household items such as cooking utensils and crockery, food and drinks, tables and chairs, DIY gadgets, miniature cylinder gas tanks, and many more useful items which I could never dream of bringing along. Tammy, Yuk Horng & I could only stared in utter amazement as these “pros” set out to work. Finally they created an area which resembled a sprawling camp, complete with an attractive bright red coloured fly sheet above to protect us from rain or shine, a make shift kitchenette and a dining area all in the midst of the jungle! Tables and chairs were set up and all we need was to plonk our heavy bodies on them. Gosh, I never expected such luxury in the wilderness. These guys have great taste in life style adventure.

William and buddies

By the way, William and Soo are very dear friends of the Penghulu. They have been faithfully visiting him over the past 10 years. When I watched the Penghulu and William engaged in their tete-a-tete, I felt the unspoken strong bond in their brand of friendship and a tremendous sense of camaraderie which had developed over the years. Two men from the opposite sides of societies respecting each other’s culture and so darned comfortable in each other’s presence.

Interestingly, the Penghulu also has a granddaughter who is supposedly the best looking female in the village. Under the watchful, roving eyes of the men, she strutted around in the most beautiful catwalk in her vicinity, looking haughty but extremely elegant in her sarong and black blouse. She sure looks pretty and strangely decked in gold chains, ear rings and bracelets. Does barter trade still exist? It was rumoured that Chan is keen to ask for her hand. Chan explained sheepishly that he is only after the Penghulu’s land and in order to get the land, he has to play the role of the gallant gentleman and hopefully catches the maiden’s affection. Let’s wait and see, shall we?

Mingling with the children

Towards evening, everyone decided to take a break, some checked out their sleeping quarters and some were already gulping their third beer. Having a beer in the jungle? You can’t get any more hip than this, can you? We went for a walk with Chan and his 2 Singaporean friends (Wong & Tay) and learned a little about the life of the Orang Asli. They are the original people of our land, their homes are in the rain forest and though they have many tribes the most well known are the Senoi, Orang Melayu Asli and the Negrito. Each has its own language and culture and they are all hunters. It is all peace and quiet here, life is un -believably basic for these natives. All they possess is their tiny bamboo hut, 2-3 cooking pots, many hand-me-down clothes and probably 8-10 children in a family. As expected, there is no other source of entertainment for adults here except to be on call for the natural procreation to take place, which probably must be very frequent. We drew this conclusion enviously after making a mental note of the children’s age during the photo shoot parade earlier.

Group photograph

For 2 glorious days and nights, Soo with the assistance of the other “food fairies” namely Alice, Kim, Jasmine, Khim and Hee dished out some scrumptious spread of yong tau foo, fried vegetables, fried fish, yam cake, drunken prawns, to fill our stomachs. After dinner, the rule was to sit around, drink and be merry. More beers, wine, brandy & whisky seem to appear like from the Heavens. It seems where the boys are, the booze comes along too. Indeed it was raining booze for 2 nights! Each evening we watched, listened attentively and laughed as the men hilariously bickered and bantered with each other on the various episodes of sexual jokes and connotations in the most entertaining manner. Who needs prudes anyway?

The journey continues ... stay tuned...
Written by Linda Trivino

No comments: