ABC + MHBC Twin Base Camp Trek
17 - 28 Oct 2026
(Annapurna Base Camp and Mardi Himal Base Camp)
Team members:
Amy T, Jess Woo, Josephine Lee, Sabrina Lim;
KC Leong, Ang Cheng Lai, Daniel Woon, Felix Ng, Kevin Lee, Lawrence Leong, Tong San Hee, Tan Han Cie.
If you are motivated, just contact Mr Cheban of Manaslu Adventure Treks, the Nepal trekking agent, via Whatsapp at:
+977 985-1055876
We have a superb experience with Manaslu Adventure Treks. Everything was seamlessly arranged from start to finish. Our mountain guides were incredibly attentive, ensuring all our needs were met while staying at the teahouses. The company was also exceptionally reliable with logistics, promptly dispatching transport whenever necessary.
Do CLICK HERE to view 140 photos taken by yours truly, KC Leong.
A warm welcome offered by Mr Cheban (2nd from right, back row), the Nepal trekking agent.
Overnight Accommodations & Elevation Breakdown:
This twin-base camp itinerary is highly achievable.
- ABC: 5D4N;
- MHBC: 4D3N;
- Total Trekking: 9 Days.
ABC Ascent:
Trailhead Suspension Bridge = 1,530m;
Sinuwa = 2,360m (overnight #1);
Deurali = 3,230m (overnight #2);
ABC = 4,130m (overnight #3) night temperature -4°C (minus 4).
ABC Descent:
Dovan = 2,500m (overnight #4);
Jhinu Danda = 1,760m (overnight #5).
A group photo before the great start of journey with Cheban, Suresh and the hotel managers
MHBC Ascent:
Forest Camp = 2,550m (overnight #6);
High Camp = 3,585m (overnight #7);
At 4am, start hike to View Point (4,200m) and Base Camp (4,500m). COLD & WINDY.
MHBC Descent:
Middle Camp or Badal Danda = 3,210m (final overnight #8).
At Siding trailhead (1,700m; end of trek), take 4WD back to hotel in Pokhara.
When I checked with Mr Cheban, Nepal trekking agent, about reversing the route to do MHBC first, he advised sticking to ABC as our first base camp. He mentioned that because MHBC is higher, doing it first puts hikers at a greater risk of mountain sickness.
Start of trekking at Jhinu Danda, where 4WD journey end here; crossing the suspension bridge
The Food
The food at the teahouses and lodges of Nepal has really improved lately, thanks to standardization introduced by Western tourists. You can take a menu from Lodge A and use it to pre-order your meals at Lodge B; the only thing that changes is the pricing, which gets higher as you go up in elevation.
We appointed Tong San Hee (previously RHB Bank IT colleague) as our CFO: not Chief Financial Officer, but Chief Food Officer, to handle all the ordering. The daily three meals are included in the package: we just place the order; chief guide will determine if the price exceeds the budget.
This is where the trails converge. In the background (the high mountains) lies the route toward Poon Hill and Nayapul (ABC trailhead), and to the left is the direction for the Jhinu Danda shortcut.
Our meals generally consisted of fried rice, fried noodles, the famous dal bhat, and surprisingly delicious tuna pizza, macaroni, momo, vegetable spring-roll, and chicken curry. The Korean Shin Ramyun noodle soup is way too spicy. We always shared our food, which have a huge advantage: if you order and eat privately, you risk going hungry if you don't like your meal. By sharing, everyone gets a taste of everything.
Hot drinks before meals are included in our package. We have the option of ordering coffee, tea, ginger lemon tea, or hot lemon water. It was wonderful to relax with a hot cup of tea or coffee before enjoying our meals. We were also informed that because dal bhat is the national dish of Nepal, ordering two or more portions entitles the group to unlimited refills of rice and dal bhat.
Enjoying the Nepalese food ... Some fried noodles include canned tuna or chicken. However, the famous dal bhat is a vegetarian rice dish made with lentils, which can cause a lot of stomach gas. The kitchen can also make delicious pizza with canned tuna.
Annapurna Base Camp
It was an incredible feat: with 4WD reaches Jhinu Danda area, first overnight at Sinuwa; second night at Deurali; third night is already at Annapurna base camp. If any team member has any high mountainous discomfort, forth day morning, the team is going downhill already (problem would solve by itself).
Then subsequently, when trekking MHBC, though higher elevation, all were fine with the elevation.
The Baraha Temple - characterized by the towering cascading waterfalls and steep rocky cliffs that rise directly behind it.
Mardi Himal Base Camp
The journey to MHBC is spectacular; the iconic Fishtail Mountain serves as the dominant figure in the background. The trail winds past Forest Camp, offering plenty of shade and a lush, mossy forest atmosphere. The teahouses along this trek are surprisingly comfortable, providing thick mattresses and warm blankets that live up to hotel standards. The trip wraps up beautifully with a final outdoor breakfast, set against the breathtaking backdrop of Fishtail Mountain.
Overnight at Deurali - This is an important stop as the timing next day will give trekkers sufficient time to arrive at ABC
Viewing the Sunrise
For ABC, catching the sunrise is effortless, as the viewing spot is a mere 200 meters from the teahouses. Sunrise is at 6:15am. In contrast, reaching the MHBC viewpoint requires a challenging 2.5-hour trek up the mountain through freezing, windy, and extreme conditions; meaning proper cold-weather gear is essential. To ensure you have enough time, plan to leave the High Camp teahouses shortly before 4am. A great tip is to order hot water in a thermal flask the night before. The next morning, simply mix in a 3-in-1 coffee packet to enjoy a hot drink along your journey to the summit.
At Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3700m). There is a lot of helicopter traffic around both the ABC and MBC areas.
Toilets
Most lodges along the ABC and MHBC trekking routes feature both modern seated toilets and traditional squat toilets, though some only provide the latter. Therefore, before embarking on your trek in Nepal, it is highly recommended to practise and ensure you are comfortable using a squat toilet. When I was younger, I didn't understand why seated toilets were necessary. Now I realize that as people age, squatting can become difficult or even impossible for some.
Shower & Charging Services
Hot showers and phone charging are available for NPR 300 (about RM8) per person, per service. Charging a power bank costs double. We avoided taking hot showers above 3,000 meters in elevation, as this can trigger altitude sickness. While teahouses previously relied on solar power to heat water, which meant hot water often ran out by late afternoon when the sun weakened, many now use household gas to provide a steady supply of power.
Arriving at Annapurna Base Camp
Trekking Itinerary Summary:
Note: standard lunch time is 1 hr 15 minutes.
Day 1 (18 Oct, Sunday): (trailhead) Jhinu Danda to Sinuwa. Start at 11:30am; arrive at 5:15pm; Total time: about 6 hours.
Day 2: Sinuwa to Deurali. Start at 7:30am; arrive at 5:15pm; Total time: about 10 hours.
Day 3: Deurali to ABC. Start at 7:15am; arrive at 2:30pm; Cloudy; external temperature dropped to 1°C by 5pm; Total time: about 7 hours.
Day 4: Descent from ABC to Dovan. Start at 8:15am after all the group photos; arrive at 3pm. Total time: about 7 hours.
Day 5: Descent from Dovan to Jhinu Danda. Start at 7:30am; hiked for 6 hours for lunch. Arrive at Jhinu Danda Hotel Evergreen at 4pm. Total time: about 9 hours.
Day 6 (23 Oct, Friday): first day of Mardi Hilmal trek. Start at 7:30am; arrive at Forest Camp (2550m) at 3:15pm. We take a connecting trek from ABC to MHBC; uphill all the way. Total time: about 8 hours.
Day 7: Second day of Mardi Hilmal trek. Start from Forest Camp at 7:30am; arrived at High Camp (3,585m) at 3:15pm. Total time: about 8 hours.
Day 8: The final ascent of the Mardi Himal trek. The team started trekking at 4am in the freezing cold. We arrived at the View Point by 6:15am just in time to watch the sunrise. We then continued to Base Camp before returning to the High Camp teahouse for lunch at 12:30pm. We finally reached Middle Camp (Badal Danda) at 3pm to overnight. Total time: about 11 hours.
Day 9 (26 Oct, Monday): Final trekking day. Started at 7:40am after an outdoor breakfast with Fishtail mountain in the background at Middle Camp teahouse. Arrived at 4WD pickup point at 11am. Total time: about 3 hours. Transfer to Hotel Mount Kailash Resort, Pokhara at 1pm. Present tips to porters and guides. Went out for Nepalese lunch that finished at 3pm.
4th day morning at ABC for viewing of sunrise
Fitness Requirements:
1. Endurance Training: Prior to the trip, you must be capable of hiking continuously for 5 to 8 hours per hike;
2. Stair Training: Because about 80% of the terrain consists of stone steps, specific stair training is essential in addition to regular trail hikes. It is highly recommended to practise walking up and down the stairwells of your office or apartment building daily for several weeks leading up to the trip. Alternatively, one can go to gym and practice with the stair-stepping machine.
Descending the mountains
Consecutive Training Days
If every Saturday or Sunday you go for local hills hiking in Kuala Lumpur for 5 hours, once a week; then this training is not sufficient. As the trekking is 9 continuous days, one must be able to train at least on alternate day (if can train every day, say, for one week, that would be close to the real world situation.
Overnight at Jhinu Danda ... the guys perform the Bollywood pose, while Sabrina is comfortably resting her leg on the friendly dog.
Sleeping Bag or Blanket?
Years ago, the mattresses and blankets in teahouses were quite thin. Because of this, a good sleeping bag provided by a trekking agent was essential for a comfortable stay.
Today, the new lodges built along the ABC and MHBC treks feature thick blankets and mattresses that are almost up to hotel standards, and can withstand cold better.
However, I am not entirely sure if our trekking agent, Mr. Cheban, put us up in these nicer accommodations. This need to double-check: not sure whether the cheaper lodges along the route still tend to have slightly thinner beds.
MHBC Forest Camp
Exchange Rates
The Nepalese Rupee (NPR) is a closed (non-convertible) currency; most international money changers do not trade it. While a few select counters in Kuala Lumpur might carry it, you will generally get a slightly better exchange rate once you arrive in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Nevertheless, it is wise to exchange a small amount before leaving Kuala Lumpur to cover immediate miscellaneous expenses upon arrival.
Continue the journey to MHBC
Visa
(a) Apply 15 days before departure;
(b) Google: Nepal Visa online application;
(c) Click the link that leads one to: NepaliPort; Department of Immigration; Online Tourist Visa;
(d) Upload: Jpeg image of your passport scanned page and passport size photo;
(e) Print a physical copy of the application or save a digital version on your smartphone;
(f) Visa Fees (payable in cash at the Kathmandu International Airport immigration counter):
• 15 days: USD 30;
• 30 days: USD 50.
The trail winds past Forest Camp, offering plenty of shade and a lush, mossy forest atmosphere.
SIM Cards
For both the ABC and MHBC trekking routes, Nepal Telecom (NTC) is the highly recommended telco operator. You can purchase a SIM card from shops in Pokhara; the fee is 1,200 NPR (approximately RM 33) for 30 days of data and usage. The vendor will handle all the necessary registration paperwork, including taking your digital photo on the spot; meaning you do not need to bring a physical passport photo.
Teahouse at High Camp with the thick mattress
Miscellaneous Teahouse Expenses
Additional expenses along the trek include hot showers, smartphone charging fees, and snacks or tidbits. Because the bulk of our meals (including breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee, and tea) are already covered in our trekking package, we will only need a small amount of pocket money. Exchanging around RM 300 or 10,000 NPR should be more than sufficient for standard personal usage.
A
t 4am, start hike to View Point (4,200m) and Base Camp (4,500m). COLD & WINDY
Coughing
Trekking during early mornings along the MHBC route exposes you to incredibly cold, dry air. Without proper protection, this harsh air dries out your airway linings, leading to a persistent cough. To protect your lungs and warm the air before it reaches them, pull a wool or synthetic neck buff or scarf up over your nose and mouth. As you exhale, your breath traps heat and moisture inside the fabric. The downside to a standard neck buff is that it can feel restrictive after a while, making breathing difficult. Alternatively, you can browse Shopee to purchase highly breathable sports face masks.
At 4am, start hike to View Point (4,200m) and Base Camp (4,500m). COLD & WINDY. Time now is about 6:15am
Nepal Bad Weather
While we were still at Forest Camp on MHBC trek on 25 Oct 2026, most Nepalese newspapers were already reporting an impending spell of bad weather. They predicted heavy rain or snow starting 30 Oct 2026, lasting for at least a few days. When I originally planned our trekking dates from 18 to 26 Oct, I did so because a similar bad weather pattern had started on 26 Oct 2025, the previous year. That is why I knew we better finish our trek by 26 Oct 2026.
Yeah, we made it !
Tipping
To determine the right tipping amount, it is best to consult your trekking agency beforehand. Tipping both mountain guides and porters is highly expected. For the distribution of tips, you should ask the chief guide about local expectations regarding percentages for the chief guide, assistant guides, and porters. Then discuss with key team members and adjust the percentages accordingly. Get ready the Ang Pow packets.
Posing with Cheban's company banner
Himalaya Products
Himalaya skincare products sold in the Thamel area of Kathmandu are significantly cheaper, often costing just a quarter of the price, compared to those sold in Kuala Lumpur. For example, popular items like the Lip Balm and Nourishing Skin Cream are highly affordable. Therefore, it is an excellent idea to buy some to bring home as souvenirs for friends and family members.
MHBC View point area
Thermal flask and metal bottle
In my experience, the best approach is to carry one 500ml thermal flask and one regular 500ml metal water bottle. This setup allows you to easily buy hot drinking water at teahouses during lunch or dinner. While water in a regular metal bottle turns cold within a few hours, making it uncomfortable to drink; the thermal flask keeps it warm enough to drink later, even as it gradually loses heat. Furthermore, if you buy hot water before bedtime, a good leak-proof metal bottle can even be rolled around the bed to act as a makeshift bed warmer.
Final overnight at Middle Camp or Badal Danda (3,250m). The bright white circle on the right side of the frame is actually the full moon.
Remitting Deposits to Trekking Agent
Use WISE to transfer US dollars to Nepal. It is a much cheaper and simpler method for international money transfers, allowing the team leader to complete the remittance directly from a desktop PC. In contrast, traditional bank transfers can be tedious, requiring one to visit a branch, fill out complex payee and transaction forms, and pay significantly higher fees.
The trip wraps up beautifully with a final outdoor breakfast, set against the breathtaking backdrop of Fishtail Mountain.
Windproof hiking pants
I wanted to buy a pair of windproof hiking pants to wear during early-morning treks in extremely cold and windy conditions. However, I couldn't find any at the Decathlon in Kuala Lumpur. Instead, for my 4am trek to MBHC, I layered my clothing: I wore a thermal base layer underneath, then the normal thin hiking pants, and put a pair of Decathlon rain pants over the top to block the wind and cold. It worked perfectly. Once the sun came up, I easily slipped the rain pants off while keeping the thermal layer on.
Appreciation presentation by Josephine Lee, flanked by Sabrina.
Mindful packing for a better trek
According to our trekking agent, each person is allowed 12kg of personal luggage for the porters to carry. Typically, a porter ties two duffel bags together. When combined with their own warm clothing, they carry a total weight of around 30kg.
We want to avoid bringing excessive gear. Many of the porters are young students working during their school holidays to help support their families. We certainly do not want to strain or injure them with "nice-to-have" items.
Imagine your young son right after his Form 5 exams, trying to work as a porter. Would you really let him carry a 40kg load when most people find walking with an 8kg daypack is tough enough?
To me, unnecessary items include:
(a) Daily outfit changes: Changing trekking gear and jackets every day just to show off a variety of clothing;
(b) Canned food: These are heavy and completely unnecessary since the food provided in the teahouses is excellent nowadays.
Appreciation presentation by KC to Senior Guide, Mr Suresh
Comparing with normal ABC trekking days
Day 1 - trek to Ulleri and overnight (1960m);
Day 2 - trek to Ghorepani and overnight (2874m); Poon Hill (3210m);
Day 3 - trek to Tadapani (2630m);
Day 4 - trek to Chhomrong (2170m);
Day 5 - trek to Bamboo (2310m);
Day 6 - trek to Deurali (3230m);
Day 7 - trek to ABC (4130m);
Day 8 - descent to Bamboo (2310m);
Day 9 - descent to Jhinu Danda (1760m);
Day 10 - descent to Landruk, drive to Pokhara.
For our trek, from Jhinu Danda to ABC and back to Jhinu Danda only took 5 trekking days.
Comfortable beds of Mt. Kailash Resort: a 4-star hotel listed in Google Maps
Transportation Logistics
We are pleased that Cheban delivers prompt and seamless transportation logistics across the following situations:
1. Arrival: van transport from Kathmandu international airport to domestic airport;
2. Pokhara: van transport from Pokhara airport to hotel;
3. 4WD transport to ABC trailhead;
4. (9 days later) 4WD transport from MHBC end point to Pokhara hotel;
5. Excursion: half-day van transport sightseeing tour in Pokhara;
6. Van transport from hotel to Pokhara airport;
7. Van transport from Kathmandu airport to hotel;
8. Departure: van transport from hotel to Kathmandu international airport.
Visiting World Peace Pagoda
Trekking Insurance
For the ABC trek at 4,100 meters, I informed the team that specialized trekking insurance wasn't necessary, so we only purchased standard travel insurance from Allianz. Since almost everyone in the team was trekking in Nepal for the first time, I explained that if anyone showed symptoms of altitude sickness at Annapurna base camp, we would already be descending the very next day. Returning to a lower elevation typically resolves the issue naturally.
As a precaution, I advised the team to start taking Ginkgo Biloba (Thomson brand) a few weeks before the trip. The rationale was that ginkgo thins the blood, allowing it to flow more readily to the brain. This can help reduce the risk of mountain sickness, which is often triggered by insufficient oxygen and blood flow to the head.
Lately, following the avalanche and flooding in Aug and Sept 2026, a few insurance companies have completely excluded Nepal from their coverage; for example, Etiqa and RHB Insurance companies. In fact, most standard travel insurance policies now refuse to cover trekking in Nepal due to widespread fraudulent claims; specifically from trekkers who try to get a helicopter rescue simply because they are tired or felt boring to walk back down the trail.
However, trekking to Everest Base Camp (EBC) at 5,500 meters is a much trickier situation. If one contracts high-altitude sickness there, you are usually still on the way up the mountain. Therefore, anyone planning an EBC trek needs to carefully evaluate their need for dedicated trekking insurance, but the premium can be as high as RM1,000.
The presentation includes plaque certificates, traditional Nepali Topi for gentlemen, and shawl for ladies.
The High Camp Room Puzzle
There was an interesting incident at the High Camp teahouse (3,585m) of MHBC. This teahouse is very popular and always fully booked. Our group of 12 (4 women and 8 men) was assigned 4 rooms, with each room containing three proper beds.
Because of the headcount, one woman would have to share a room with two men. None of the women liked that idea; they preferred to all sleep together in one room.
The owner stepped in and suggested putting two extra mattresses on the floor between the wooden beds in one room. However, because he provided the extra mattresses, he wanted to put two strangers into one of the men's rooms to fill the empty beds. We felt this was also a bad idea.
So, we told the owner to take his mattresses back, deciding to handle the arrangements ourselves.
What do you think we did?
Since the men's room has a spare mattress and blanket anyway, we simply moved those over to the women's room, and placed them on the floor. The wooden bedframe is heavy, not able to move. Besides, the owner may not be pleased to see that we started to shift the wooden bed from one room to another. This allowed the 4 women to stay together in one room, and it kept strangers out of the men's room!
Presentation of certificate of accomplishment by Mr Cheban, flanked by Sabrina
Moisturizer and sunscreen
These are items that many men forget to pack, whereas most women will have a full supply. Because the dry, harsh conditions here are so different from a tropical climate, our skin can start to crack and become painful. Therefore, it is highly recommended to bring a moisturizer that includes SPF, along with a half-inch roll of 3M surgical tape.
The glare from the silky smooth white T-shirt presented by Mr Cheban.
Backpack size
When team members ask about the ideal backpack size, my advice is to ensure it has enough space to store the warm layers you shed as the day heats up. Mornings can be extremely cold, but as temperatures rise, you will need room to pack away a fleece jacket, an outer shell, gloves, a beanie, and snacks. Additionally, it should fit two 500ml water bottles. For this trip, I am using the Decathlon Quechua MH500 25L hiking backpack, which I bought for RM250. This is also my go-to pack for day hikes around Kuala Lumpur.
Farewell dinner hosted by Mr Cheban at a leading Western cuisine restaurant in Pokhara.
One final view of the Fishtail Mountain from the Mt. Kailash Resort room
I find great joy in shopping
Up until now, Decathlon has always been my go-to place for hiking gear because of their fixed pricing. However, on our final day in Kathmandu (28 Oct 2026), we decided to visit a shop in Thamel (tourists shopping hub) recommended by some hiker friends. While I was browsing for my preferred gear, the rest of our team members were enthusiastically picking out and buying items.
The real pleasure of the experience came down to two things:
1. We managed to negotiate a bigger discount: Initially, the standard discount was 10%. The owner then offered an extra 5% for the tour guide who brought us there, but after some bargaining, we successfully pushed the final discount to 20%;
2. I found an absolute steal: I picked up a nice and good quality windbreaker, and after the discount and converting the price of 2,100 Rupees, it came out to only RM56. It was incredibly cheap compared to buying the same thing back home in Kuala Lumpur.
Posted by KC Leong
